The Hayabusa has always been one of the most iconic Halo helmets (in my humble opinion) up there with the Recon and Chief, so it came as a disappointment when it wasn't put into Halo 4. Fortunately enough, some blessed soul decided to post photos of a concept H4 Hayabusa that Brad and I thought to be pretty awesome, so we had no choice but to try our hand at it. Step one was to have it modeled by JTM Studios so we could pep it out.
By using the standard Pepakura method of cutting, folding, and gluing, the basic shape was achieved.
The standard procedure after this is to seal the surface with fiberglass resin and coat the inside with fiberglass, but lately there has been a great migration from fiberglass to urethane casting resin for a multitude of reasons. Fiberglass sucks. Sometimes. Well, for helmets anyways. It can be hard to manipulate and it is highly toxic and difficult to sand, where as Smooth Cast 300 is very easy to use and won't kill you (if you don't want it to). So for this helmet, both the inside and outside were coated with Smooth Cast. This came in very useful in later steps.
Once hardened, it was time for body filler. It's really just layers and layers of bondo and primer, just fill, sand, prime, fill, sand, prime, until satisfied. To get a clean surface, we start with 80 grit sandpaper and move to a medium sanding sponge to get the sanding scratches off. The finer grits come later once all the details have been added. You will notice how it looks rather messy with bondo, but there's nothing sandpaper can't fix!(Get ready for lots of images)
This is where Smooth Cast beats fiberglass resin. While sanding the bondo, it isn't uncommon to sand down to the sealer or even the cardstock underneath. If this happens with fiberglass resin, the surface ends up looking like a spot of shredded paper, but smooth cast provides a better medium for sanding which leaves you with a smoother, cleaner surface. Knowledge!
In this picture you can see the different layers. White is cardstock/Smooth Cast, salmon is bondo, grey is filler primer, and red is spot putty.
After the base was smoothed out, it was time for details. To get the entire helmet symmetrical, templates were made that could be transferred to both side of the helmet then sculpted on, either with apoxie or bondo. The details here were sculpted with apoxie, which is like modeling clay at first, then it dries so that it can be sanded down later. Needle files were very useful here!
The cheek vents were cut out for detailing later. Some of the bondo details were achieved by making a negative template (the opposite of the desired part) and tracing it onto adhesive 2 mm foam sheets. These sheets were then stuck on the helmet and bondo was applied over the uncovered region, and when the bondo dried to the point where your fingerprints no longer show, the foamies were carefully peeled off. Voila! Just sand and it's good to go!
The cheek vents were backed with styrene and details added on with even thinner styrene and apoxie sculpt. We also added rivets!
And now it just needs some minor prepping and it'll be ready to mold! Next time: molding and casting!
Thanks for reading!